Recent content by Chapster

Oh and a lifetime supply of the most detailed, intimately familiar post-sales support you could ask for... :)

So that's a "no" then 😂 Jks that's an epic post. OP is very fortunate to have your insights if he goes that way. Never apologise for being "long winded" when you're giving the good, hard-earned detail

Geez @Corey d40 I cannot imagine how frustrating it would be to have already replaced the turbo, intercooler, BCS and MAP sensor only to have your boost-seeking heart still broken. It would be bittersweet to find your issue is something as potentially cheap and simple as a perished or displaced...

Well done mate, glad you were able to sort it out

280 kpa seems high given the MAP sensor's range of measurement (per the manual) tops out at 253.3 kpa (36.73 psi) absolute pressure. Deducting atmospheric pressure (~14.7 psi) you get a maximum (measured) boost of 22.03 psi which I'm guessing is also the magic number for throwing an overboost...

As I understand it controlling boost is both an active and reactive process for the ECU. I say reactive because there are a bunch of variables the ECU does not control, most notably what you're doing with your right foot. And as you know turbos can spool up pretty quickly. In reality it is...

Vacuum pump on the driver side of the engine provides vacuum to the brake booster and to the boost control solenoid (BCS) over on the passenger side, located under the airbox near the alternator. BCS then apportions vacuum either to the turbo actuator (where it closes the vanes under vacuum) OR...

If overboosting is your problem, you may be able to resolve it by adjusting the actuator on the turbo. Certainly I would start there before buying a whole new turbo. See @Scott52 's helpful post here. Incidentally I recently experimented a little and did not bother with the extra turn of the...

Apologies mate just realised you've got a D22. Mine is an R51 (same as D40). Pics attached nonetheless but expect they're of no use to you

Mate if someone does not come to your aid on this one I will take a photo and send it through over the weekend (if you still need it).

Cheers @Phunk I've likewise appreciated your contributions here in the few short years I've had my Pathfinder. Good luck with the new truck.

I think you guys are talking about different things. I think @cocodrilo is quoting intake manifold pressure while @Scott52 is quoting turbo boost. I have read elsewhere that the former includes atmospheric pressure. That is, intake manifold pressure = atmospheric pressure + boost pressure If...

If working well I am interested in: - blower motor - a/c interface - plastic trim around ignition keyhole

For what its worth, my wife's Mazda CX5 was showing dash lights which indicated problems with the ABS. It drove terribly too with shudders aplenty and what seemed like a badly misbehaving gearbox. I started hunting down ABS issues including wheel sensors and their wiring. Turns out the issue...

Two other points mentioned further down in the above thread (to save you looking for them): 1. After the reset, go ahead and start the car. Don't turn the ignition off again before starting the car and taking it for a run. 2. Do the reset when the engine is already warm and running at usual...