The old “ZD30 Won’t Start”

[Shane T]

First of all, I’m a new member to the forum, have spent the last few days reading and learning before posting up a new thread. The wealth of knowledge contained & shared by members is very much appreciated.

Now our story………

After chasing a Navara for 6 months I’ve finally brought my daughter a 2006 D22 ZD30 as her first car as that’s what she wanted. Got it for $4k with a few accessories but also with the issue of not starting.

The seller was very helpful and upfront with what had been done previously to the vehicle and what had been done to fault find the issue. Thinking that it’s most likely the pump and knowing the cost of replacing the pump we still thought it was a good buy and chance for my daughter to learn more than just “checking the oil and tyre pressure” maintenance.

BACKSTORY
The seller was driving home after a camping trip, stopped at a set of lights, went to leave the lights and engined stopped. Towed it home, checked codes and got the following

0403 Throttle Position Sensor
0703 Pump In-line Comms
0706 Pump Spill Valve

The seller checked for air leaks using clear hoses and also primer goes hard after 3 pushes. He said it would fire & briefly run on start ya *******. He also confirmed there was diesel at the injectors.

I got it home a few days ago and after some reading on here started my own fault finding journey.

Removed, inspected and metered every fuse which could be located.

Fitted fully charged, 750CCA battery, removed and cleaned earths on intake manifold and metered for good connection.

Extracted fault codes and got the same as above but also 0407 Crank Angle Sensor. Cleared faults, checked again and only got 0505 which I think is “System OK”.

Checked glow plug connecting plate for voltage and it was good.

Primed the fuel line and pump was hard after 4 pushes.

Turned over engine and while it turns over fine there was no sign of any cylinder firing.

Removed #1 Glow Plug and it was dry. Also sniffed exhaust and no diesel smell whatsoever.

Removed intake/throttle body to get to all injector lines and ensure there was no blockage. Cracked injector lines one at a time and cranked motor. Got diesel out of lines 1, 2 & 3 but none out of 4.

That’s as far as we got yesterday.

Given previous owner said it would fire on “Start Ya *******” I’m assuming the camshaft timing and compression is ok. While I do have a diesel compression test kit I don’t have an adaptor to suit the length of the ZD30 glow plugs.

As a side note is using Start Ya ******* an accepted and safe way to check if cylinders will fire?

After getting diesel at 1, 2 & 3 I was thinking it might be a case of blocked injectors but getting nothing at 4 and finding no signs of diesel getting into the cylinders makes me think it’s the pump. Maybe it’s not making enough pressure to crack the injectors open.

If there was diesel getting into any cylinder I would of expected a cough or splutter.

Next step is to unplug, inspect and clean all loom & sensor plugs.

I brought the vehicle knowing it could be the pump and expecting to replace the pump but hoping there is a definitive way to prove it is the pump.

I checked for codes again at the end of fault finding and only got 0407 Crank Angle Sensor again.

Lastly is there any tips/advice to removing the injectors?

My daughter is certainly learning a bit more about her first car.

TIA

 

[Shane T]

Interesting YouTube clip on how to test the CAS and the resulting ECU Signal to the IP.

 

[Olpha]

Hi Shane,
Just to confirm. This is the Common Rail injection motor?

 

[Shane T]

Hi Shane,
Just to confirm. This is the Common Rail injection motor?

No, it’s the ZD30 DDT.

The introduction of the CRD was a year later in 2007.

 

[redkite]

The Patrol was sold with a common rail ZD30 engine. The Navara only had the (earlier) ZD30 without common rail, and later the common rail YD25 engine (and a few earlier engines, omitted for brevity)

 

[Olpha]

Hi Shane,
I had a problem with a 2003 Patrol that developed this problem for while.
In short it was the filter primer. Cost me a bucketload because it did it in Kununurra after being on the Gibb River road.
The morning after being on the rough road it would not start. I had a primer bulb and hose with me and went straight to it (because I suspected I had cracked a fuel line on the rough road) which I connected on the tank side of the delivery to the filter and primed and kept priming with that bulb until it started. It took a bit and I also found that I had to crack the injector pipes to get the air out while being cranked before it would even look like firing.
Talking to a Nissan tech in Perth later he told me that the primer itself starts to let air in and it will not be able to pump properly if you are trying to use that alone to prime. It will just keep putting air into the system. That certainly tied in with what I had found by luck.
I am not sure if your motor would run the same type filter as the one I had but I have attached a photo that you can compare.
Hope you win the battle soon.

 

[Shane T]

Thanks for the advice Olpha

I followed the steps to test the CAS as per the YouTube clip I posted earlier and found I was getting no voltage when testing between the positive on the battery and either of the 2 earths (brown and grey wires in the engine loom plug) but same voltage as the battery on any other earthed point in the engine bay.

Also no reading on my multimeter from the signal wire (blue with red trace) which is from the ECU to the injector pump when cranking

I really need an Oscilloscope to prove beyond doubt but given the only fault code I am now getting is the CAS Fault I’m hoping it’s a stuffed CAS and the pump is ok.

Will call Nissan dealer in the morning and see how many weeks worth of wages a new one will be.

 

[Jardsoooo]

An excellent Father Daughter project. Hope it works out well for you both. Love my YD25 D22.

 

[redkite]

I think it should still start without a crank angle sensor. The pump is mechanical and will always inject at TDC due to being directly gear-connected to the crackshaft. It has some electronics to adjust the injected amount and vary the timing slightly, but if that timing is off it will only run rough.

If it fires on starting fluid, you can assume the valve timing and compression are good enough to have it run.

And as you are getting a variety of pump/injection related errors I would suspect either the pump, the ECU, or the wiring in between.

Since the pump is the most expensive, I would start with the rest. The ECU isn't linked to the injectors and pretty easy to replace.

 

[Rumpig]

If nissan want an arm and leg get a price from Nizzbits , he's prices are always better.
Does seem as though it's the crank angle sensor but check the plate on the back of the crank pulley/damper. the 4 corners stick out and that's what the sensor reads off.

 

[user 50225]

If nissan want an arm and leg get a price from Nizzbits , he's prices are always better.
Does seem as though it's the crank angle sensor but check the plate on the back of the crank pulley/damper. the 4 corners stick out and that's what the sensor reads off.

Is Nizzbits still around? I remember buying off him back in the mid-2000s. I've been away from the scene for a while.

 

[Old.Tony]

Is Nizzbits still around? I remember buying off him back in the mid-2000s. I've been away from the scene for a while.

Their web site is still active. I guess that's a good sign!

https://nizzbits.com.au/

 

[user 50225]

Their web site is still active. I guess that's a good sign!

https://nizzbits.com.au/

Cheer Tony,
Didn't know he had a website. The last time I ordered from him it was a phone call after finding him on a Patrol forum.

 

[hotheada]

First of all, I’m a new member to the forum, have spent the last few days reading and learning before posting up a new thread. The wealth of knowledge contained & shared by members is very much appreciated.

Now our story………

After chasing a Navara for 6 months I’ve finally brought my daughter a 2006 D22 ZD30 as her first car as that’s what she wanted. Got it for $4k with a few accessories but also with the issue of not starting.

The seller was very helpful and upfront with what had been done previously to the vehicle and what had been done to fault find the issue. Thinking that it’s most likely the pump and knowing the cost of replacing the pump we still thought it was a good buy and chance for my daughter to learn more than just “checking the oil and tyre pressure” maintenance.

BACKSTORY
The seller was driving home after a camping trip, stopped at a set of lights, went to leave the lights and engined stopped. Towed it home, checked codes and got the following

0403 Throttle Position Sensor
0703 Pump In-line Comms
0706 Pump Spill Valve

The seller checked for air leaks using clear hoses and also primer goes hard after 3 pushes. He said it would fire & briefly run on start ya *******. He also confirmed there was diesel at the injectors.

I got it home a few days ago and after some reading on here started my own fault finding journey.

Removed, inspected and metered every fuse which could be located.

Fitted fully charged, 750CCA battery, removed and cleaned earths on intake manifold and metered for good connection.

Extracted fault codes and got the same as above but also 0407 Crank Angle Sensor. Cleared faults, checked again and only got 0505 which I think is “System OK”.

Checked glow plug connecting plate for voltage and it was good.

Primed the fuel line and pump was hard after 4 pushes.

Turned over engine and while it turns over fine there was no sign of any cylinder firing.

Removed #1 Glow Plug and it was dry. Also sniffed exhaust and no diesel smell whatsoever.

Removed intake/throttle body to get to all injector lines and ensure there was no blockage. Cracked injector lines one at a time and cranked motor. Got diesel out of lines 1, 2 & 3 but none out of 4.

That’s as far as we got yesterday.

Given previous owner said it would fire on “Start Ya *******” I’m assuming the camshaft timing and compression is ok. While I do have a diesel compression test kit I don’t have an adaptor to suit the length of the ZD30 glow plugs.

As a side note is using Start Ya ******* an accepted and safe way to check if cylinders will fire?

After getting diesel at 1, 2 & 3 I was thinking it might be a case of blocked injectors but getting nothing at 4 and finding no signs of diesel getting into the cylinders makes me think it’s the pump. Maybe it’s not making enough pressure to crack the injectors open.

If there was diesel getting into any cylinder I would of expected a cough or splutter.

Next step is to unplug, inspect and clean all loom & sensor plugs.

I brought the vehicle knowing it could be the pump and expecting to replace the pump but hoping there is a definitive way to prove it is the pump.

I checked for codes again at the end of fault finding and only got 0407 Crank Angle Sensor again.

Lastly is there any tips/advice to removing the injectors?

My daughter is certainly learning a bit more about her first car.

TIA

If its the regular zd30 and not the common rail pull the engine cover and cheak the gas oil rail in the head, mine broke and i replace it and that problem was gone

 

[Rocknral]

How did this story end? I've been searching extensively for no start advice and get dead ends where no fix is advised. Very frustrating.

 

[Boogieboots]

How did this story end? I've been searching extensively for no start advice and get dead ends where no fix is advised. Very frustrating.

What are your symptoms and what have you tried?

 

[dattorob]

Hi Shane,
I had a problem with a 2003 Patrol that developed this problem for while.
In short it was the filter primer. Cost me a bucketload because it did it in Kununurra after being on the Gibb River road.
The morning after being on the rough road it would not start. I had a primer bulb and hose with me and went straight to it (because I suspected I had cracked a fuel line on the rough road) which I connected on the tank side of the delivery to the filter and primed and kept priming with that bulb until it started. It took a bit and I also found that I had to crack the injector pipes to get the air out while being cranked before it would even look like firing.
Talking to a Nissan tech in Perth later he told me that the primer itself starts to let air in and it will not be able to pump properly if you are trying to use that alone to prime. It will just keep putting air into the system. That certainly tied in with what I had found by luck.
I am not sure if your motor would run the same type filter as the one I had but I have attached a photo that you can compare.
Hope you win the battle soon.View attachment 36260

yip same primer by the looks

 

[dattorob]

Is Nizzbits still around? I remember buying off him back in the mid-2000s. I've been away from the scene for a while.

yes they're, ordered some parts off them recently. [email protected] & [email protected]

 

[Rocknral]

What are your symptoms and what have you tried?

Sorry for the late reply, had a bit going on lately. Well, I have a no start issue. Ive changed fuel filter, ( primer get hard after 3-4 pumps), changed the CAS ( had code), replaced a few dodgy vacuum hoses, and a cracked injector return hose that hooks back in to inlet side of injector pump banjo bolt. Replaced washers on both banjo bolts. Cleaned all earth's I could find. Checked ground and power on light blue plug between ECU and IP. Confirmed power in same connection for CAS signal ( blue/ red wire) and also power in blue/silver wire (which I can't remember controls). It now cranks and tries to fire intermittently. I removed the injector return hose to see if there was any fuel coming from injector overflow while cranking, but it is dry as... nothing at all.
Tried clamping injector pump return to tank hose to get some sort of back pressure in pump but still only cranks.
That's about it. I'm leaning to it being the EDU box on the top of the pump.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

 

[dattorob]

i know you've probably covered all of these but here are the notes i've made from this forum over the years. You may be able to spot something here you haven't checked.

you may have an air leak. air gets sucked in as you drive and/or primer one way valve has failed allowing fuel to drain back to the tank.

If the ecu doesn't see 12v as a minimum I think it cuts the fuel,

timing -> there should be a sensor attached to the main crankshaft or camshaft. This may be faulty, may have debris in it, may be disconnected electrically (oxidization or debris in the connector - has your engine bay been pressure washed? Big no-no there!).

Disconnect the outlet of the fuel filter and put a temporary hose into a clean container (one that you'd be happy to pour back into your fuel tank). Get someone to crank the motor over - fuel SHOULD come out. If it doesn't, your lift pump isn't playing the game, but if you can hear it working, there's a chance that there's a blockage around the lift pump or in the tank pickup.

The only other thing it could be is air flow. Diesels are pretty simple - put a little bit of fuel in with a full gulp of air and when the piston hits the top, BOOM (hence their actual correct title of "compression ignition" engines). It is a great idea to open the entire air path and inspect it - it is probably filled with black oil anyway (blow-by - a catch can will fix that).

Have you looked at your shut-off valve? Try disconnecting the hose to the green (middle) solenoid and see if she'll fire up, or make a note of the position of the shut-off valve. If it's closed, you'll get zip all out of it. If it's open and then closes, it'll fire for a second and turn off. Worth 5min to look at, this happened to me...

that would be unusual as both solenoids would have to be leaking to apply vac. (for factory setup. only one if butterfly mod.)

tho easy to test just unplug both vac hoses to the intake shut off valve.

valve is open by default.

It could be a failed pump. It's happened before. Not very often mind you, these things are fairly robust. It's usually water that causes the damage - water will pass through the filter. Sometimes debris does too (no idea why it does, it shouldn't - that's what a filter is supposed to prevent) so it's possible that there's muck in the pump.

the other thing is something tripping one of the sensors.

i think blown brake light fuse can cause no start as ecu has a brake input.

also people have had issues with starter and relays arcing which screws up the signal to the crank sensor.

X2 with Woz and Diggerman, if the dash light is out, got to start looking for air in the fuel, just because fuel is seen pumping out of the supply pipes doesn't mean it's not aerated.
As said, these engines are super sensitive to air in the fuel when starting, could be getting in anywhere, porous pipes, loose connection, the old favourite - worn out priming pump, I have even had a non starter due to a porous diesel filter canister!
Might even be because you ran it too low and it drew some air in?

Did you crack open the injector pipes at the injector?

You need to see fuel squirting out there when you crank the engine over.

No matter what diesel, if you want save heartache, batteries and starters, You need to make sure its all primed properly before you try to start, if its not then you end up with air in injector lines etc then it all gets harder. Its a pain to find the primer does not work when all you have is air in the filter, if can get really hard when you have air in all the places their should be fuel and you find the primer does not work.