Glow plugs

[Cuda]

My mate's son has just got his motor back following an engine rebuild (dropped $5,500). The rebuild was caused by the tip of a glow plug breaking off and dropping into a cylinder. The mechanic says that they should be replaced every 50,000k. As mine is coming up to 80,000k since I've had it, what is the option of the Forum.

Cheers,
Cuda

 

[Old.Tony]

Mine haven't been touched, over 360,000km on the clock. I'll ask my mechanic to check them next service, I hadn't considered it to be a problem but now that I think about it ...

 

[tweak'e]

i have not heard of it in the navaras.
its a big deal with certain age toyotas that are well known for that issue. i think the issue was around the early ceramic glow plugs. the later ones are much more reliable. the early metal ones are also reliable.

what you also have to watch is damaged glow plugs due to worn injectors.

 

[Cuda]

Mine haven't been touched, over 360,000km on the clock. I'll ask my mechanic to check them next service, I hadn't considered it to be a problem but now that I think about it ...

He has a patrol. As a sideline you mentioned your mechanic. I have had my 2008 D40 since 2013 and run up approximately 80,000k since then (150,000k on the clock now) I have done all my own work and have had no real problems other than to rebuild a fuel pump. I often hear people say that they get their truck serviced regularly at such and such a place, but is there a need to do that? I tend to work on the principle that if it ain't broke don't fix it, however hearing such horrid story is making me reevaluate my thinking. I'm just up the road from Berrima Diesel and I am wondering if I should book it in for a check, but what would they be looking for?
Cheers,
Cuda

 

[Connaught]

When i tore my engine down at 365k the glow plugs where fine,

They arent installed with a high torque, 15 foot pound, but if they have been in a long time, they can be problematic so use a decent 6 point deep socket to get them out

 

[Old.Tony]

He has a patrol. As a sideline you mentioned your mechanic. I have had my 2008 D40 since 2013 and run up approximately 80,000k since then (150,000k on the clock now) I have done all my own work and have had no real problems other than to rebuild a fuel pump. I often hear people say that they get their truck serviced regularly at such and such a place, but is there a need to do that? I tend to work on the principle that if it ain't broke don't fix it, however hearing such horrid story is making me reevaluate my thinking. I'm just up the road from Berrima Diesel and I am wondering if I should book it in for a check, but what would they be looking for?
Cheers,
Cuda

I get my car regularly serviced and checked by the local mechanic (they're actually a tractor dealer and do lots of farm equipment, smaller trucks and a large number of passenger vehicles). I trust them. I had them go over the vehicle for any potential failures - "Can you tell me what it needs to make it go like new again" and they pointed me to a front wheel bearing and the rear diff. I've replaced the front wheel bearing but the diff - while it's wearing - still performs well without any major noise and they've seen it since (another 10,000km on) and said it's still not crucial to fix.

This inspection did cost me a bit - 2 hours they took to go over my car with a fine toothed comb - but I am confident it's going to continue to work well. The cracked head earlier this year was completely out of left field - and they said it shouldn't have happened, so there must have been something like an air pocket that was caught allowing a hot spot to develop. Since then I've placed my car on a steep incline (nose up) and checked the system for air, tried to top it up - no, the mechanics at Inwood Motors in Bathurst did a pretty good job.

Does that help?

 

[Erick]

Zd30 motor with k250 on it. Inspected replaced glow plugs as two not working. Only half the tip left on a couple, looked like they had been etched or burnt off. Might be time to look at the injectors too? Such an easy check-1/2 hour or so. Oh and have a look around EBay, I got a complete set for half the price I was quoted for one new one locally. Look and work exactly same as genuine.

 

[Cuda]

I get my car regularly serviced and checked by the local mechanic (they're actually a tractor dealer and do lots of farm equipment, smaller trucks and a large number of passenger vehicles). I trust them. I had them go over the vehicle for any potential failures - "Can you tell me what it needs to make it go like new again" and they pointed me to a front wheel bearing and the rear diff. I've replaced the front wheel bearing but the diff - while it's wearing - still performs well without any major noise and they've seen it since (another 10,000km on) and said it's still not crucial to fix.

This inspection did cost me a bit - 2 hours they took to go over my car with a fine toothed comb - but I am confident it's going to continue to work well. The cracked head earlier this year was completely out of left field - and they said it shouldn't have happened, so there must have been something like an air pocket that was caught allowing a hot spot to develop. Since then I've placed my car on a steep incline (nose up) and checked the system for air, tried to top it up - no, the mechanics at Inwood Motors in Bathurst did a pretty good job.

Does that help?

Yes, I will get my truck checked over (always worried about the cam chain which so far is fine). When you say regular service, I'm assuming you mean oil changes, etc? It just that from your posts I would assume that you would be handy on the spanners and would do that stuff yourself. Also, I thought that the front wheel bearings could not be replaced individually as they are part of the shaft?
Always trying to learn.
Cheers,
Cuda.

 

[Old.Tony]

Yes, I will get my truck checked over (always worried about the cam chain which so far is fine). When you say regular service, I'm assuming you mean oil changes, etc? It just that from your posts I would assume that you would be handy on the spanners and would do that stuff yourself. Also, I thought that the front wheel bearings could not be replaced individually as they are part of the shaft?
Always trying to learn.
Cheers,
Cuda.

I used to do this sort of thing myself, but Uncle Arthur is a constant visitor and prevents me from doing a great deal. After taking Meloxicam for a couple of days I'm right to go, which is what I do for race events, but I can't do it all the time because of the risk of side effects (stomach bleeding etc).

I still try to do my own electrical work, because even when I talk to an auto electrician and gauge their skill and decide that they're got the necessary knowledge to achieve the desired outcome, they end up using inferior products - I asked for heavy gauge wire to carry 40 amps to the rear of the car continuously and they put 6 sq mm cable in (technically rated at 60A, but that's its short term load not continual). I replaced it with 21 sq mm cable.

But when it comes to the "get your hand in under the side and under the torx bolt holding the SCV with your arm at 90 degrees to the orbit of Venus", I'm afraid that Uncle Arthur wins the day and I have to seek assistance.

 

[OldManBeard]

its a big deal with certain age toyotas that are well known for that issue. i think the issue was around the early ceramic glow plugs. the later ones are much more reliable. the early metal ones are also reliable.

FWIW, the service schedule makes no mention of them needing periodic replacement. Nevertheless, after seeing the original post I started to get just a little concerned. Does anyone know whether or not those in my model (see signature) are metal? I'm really hoping they're metal.

 

[OldManBeard]

But when it comes to the "get your hand in under the side and under the torx bolt holding the SCV with your arm at 90 degrees to the orbit of Venus", I'm afraid that Uncle Arthur wins the day and I have to seek assistance.

It doesn't help that it really needs to be done mostly with the left hand and I'm very right-handed. And yeah, I'm getting too old and sore for this crap too.

 

[tweak'e]

FWIW, the service schedule makes no mention of them needing periodic replacement. Nevertheless, after seeing the original post I started to get just a little concerned. Does anyone know whether or not those in my model (see signature) are metal? I'm really hoping they're metal.

they are ceramic, everything is from around 2000's on. 2013 they will be decent ones.
the problematic ones i know of are 1995-2000 era.

 

[OldManBeard]

they are ceramic, everything is from around 2000's on. 2013 they will be decent ones.
the problematic ones i know of are 1995-2000 era.

Thanks for that info. It's comforting to know.

 

[Cuda]

I used to do this sort of thing myself, but Uncle Arthur is a constant visitor and prevents me from doing a great deal. After taking Meloxicam for a couple of days I'm right to go, which is what I do for race events, but I can't do it all the time because of the risk of side effects (stomach bleeding etc).

I still try to do my own electrical work, because even when I talk to an auto electrician and gauge their skill and decide that they're got the necessary knowledge to achieve the desired outcome, they end up using inferior products - I asked for heavy gauge wire to carry 40 amps to the rear of the car continuously and they put 6 sq mm cable in (technically rated at 60A, but that's its short term load not continual). I replaced it with 21 sq mm cable.

But when it comes to the "get your hand in under the side and under the torx bolt holding the SCV with your arm at 90 degrees to the orbit of Venus", I'm afraid that Uncle Arthur wins the day and I have to seek assistance.

Fair enough mate, we will never be able to beat father time.

 

[Cuda]

they are ceramic, everything is from around 2000's on. 2013 they will be decent ones.
the problematic ones i know of are 1995-2000 era.

So I could be in trouble with my 2008 model? Having said that though are the problematic once prone to breaking or simply stop working?

 

[tweak'e]

So I could be in trouble with my 2008 model? Having said that though are the problematic once prone to breaking or simply stop working?

no, the ones i know of where all pre 2000's. i'm just not sure what nissan had early 2000 especially in the qd32 engine.
everything from zd30 onwards is fine.
all glow plugs eventually stop working. the problematic ones actually broke the tips off and you can end up with the ceramic tip being smacked into the piston or head. much more of a problem in the IDI motors (like the td27/qd32) as they don't have a combustion bowl in the pistons. the procedure for the toyotas was to replace the glows every 100,000 km (i think can't recall the exact distance) to reduce the risk of them breaking. i do not know if nissan ever used that type of glow plug, but if they did it was pre zd30.