Engine taking a long time to cool down.

[Cannonboy]

I've got a 2011 str d22 and I've been having cooling issues for a few weeks whenever I'm doing over 80 mainly on hills.
I've read other threads to do with this and the fan clutch seems fine. Flushed and replaced thermostat but still happening so figure l should replace the radiator.
Weird thing I'm noticing is how fast its getting up to operating temp, usually within a km or 2 from start up and then once l turn off the ignition the gauge is still showing operating temperature even after 45mins.
Got me stumped!

 

[Old.Tony]

The gauges are not the most accurate things on the planet.

However, these engines are heavy beasts for their capacity and they do retain heat a fair bit. It's no surprise that it's still warm after 45 minutes.

Many describe a fan clutch test using a rolled-up newspaper. This is not the way to test the fan, it's how you crack the blades! With the car up to operating temperature, pop the bonnet and watch the fan while someone else turns off the ignition. If the clutch is working properly, the fan should stop about the same time as the engine does. If it rolls on a little, it's not grabbing the drive shaft well and may not be pulling air like it should.

Also, examine the blade roots of the cooling fan. If there's any cracking around them, the blades might flex instead of drawing air - and they might flex enough to rub the radiator (have a look for signs of circular rubbing on the back of that).

Do you have many driving lights blocking the air intake at the front? I moved my LED lightbar to below the top of my bullbar and that, with the two IPF driving lights, blocked enough of the air intake to cause my car to overheat at 90km/h+. I've since tossed the IPF lights, the light bar does a better job using half the power.

Finally, with a coolish-to-cold engine, if you spray water through the front of the radiator, do you see if come out quickly at the back? Any blockages?

 

[Cannonboy]

The gauges are not the most accurate things on the planet.

However, these engines are heavy beasts for their capacity and they do retain heat a fair bit. It's no surprise that it's still warm after 45 minutes.

Many describe a fan clutch test using a rolled-up newspaper. This is not the way to test the fan, it's how you crack the blades! With the car up to operating temperature, pop the bonnet and watch the fan while someone else turns off the ignition. If the clutch is working properly, the fan should stop about the same time as the engine does. If it rolls on a little, it's not grabbing the drive shaft well and may not be pulling air like it should.

Also, examine the blade roots of the cooling fan. If there's any cracking around them, the blades might flex instead of drawing air - and they might flex enough to rub the radiator (have a look for signs of circular rubbing on the back of that).

Do you have many driving lights blocking the air intake at the front? I moved my LED lightbar to below the top of my bullbar and that, with the two IPF driving lights, blocked enough of the air intake to cause my car to overheat at 90km/h+. I've since tossed the IPF lights, the light bar does a better job using half the power.

Finally, with a coolish-to-cold engine, if you spray water through the front of the radiator, do you see if come out quickly at the back? Any blockages?

Thanks old Tony.
I've looked at the back of the radiator and don't see any rubbing marks but the front looks pretty dirty.
I'll have to try your other suggestions and see what happens. Cheers

 

[Olpha]

Hi Cannonboy
Going back a few years I had trouble of similar nature with both a Nissan Terrano and Toyota HJ61.
One thing found on both was that the condition of the engine oil was critical to the cooling ability.
I was advised to give the Terrano a really good oil flusher. The amount of junk that came out was extraordinary!
Interestingly it did make a difference however I was also having fuel pressure issues and poor burn that would not be helpful.
The HJ61 really did show a big difference.
Both of these vehicles were older and had poor service records available so it is unknown if they were treated with respect.
Modern motors rely heavily on oil to remove heat from the base of the combustion areas and if the oil is gunking up it pushes more heat into the water cooling system.
Just a line of thought to consider.

 

[Cannonboy]

Hi Cannonboy
Going back a few years I had trouble of similar nature with both a Nissan Terrano and Toyota HJ61.
One thing found on both was that the condition of the engine oil was critical to the cooling ability.
I was advised to give the Terrano a really good oil flusher. The amount of junk that came out was extraordinary!
Interestingly it did make a difference however I was also having fuel pressure issues and poor burn that would not be helpful.
The HJ61 really did show a big difference.
Both of these vehicles were older and had poor service records available so it is unknown if they were treated with respect.
Modern motors rely heavily on oil to remove heat from the base of the combustion areas and if the oil is gunking up it pushes more heat into the water cooling system.
Just a line of thought to consider.

Thanks for that info.
Got to admit the car was neglected for a few years and is well and truly due for an oil change.

Going to pick up a new radiator this arvo and if the problem is solved then get onto the oil.

 

[GoOff]

I've got a 2011 str d22 and I've been having cooling issues for a few weeks whenever I'm doing over 80 mainly on hills.
I've read other threads to do with this and the fan clutch seems fine. Flushed and replaced thermostat but still happening so figure l should replace the radiator.
Weird thing I'm noticing is how fast its getting up to operating temp, usually within a km or 2 from start up and then once l turn off the ignition the gauge is still showing operating temperature even after 45mins.
Got me stumped!

Just had exactly same issue and was blocked radiator. According to Natrad these engine will run until high speed up hills with pretty much no radiator. Mine was 80% blocked in core and external and it still ran fine except had all the same issues you are experiencing.

Good luck but almost certain that will be the problem.

 

[Cannonboy]

Just had exactly same issue and was blocked radiator. According to Natrad these engine will run until high speed up hills with pretty much no radiator. Mine was 80% blocked in core and external and it still ran fine except had all the same issues you are experiencing.

Good luck but almost certain that will be the problem.

Just picked up a new koyo radiator and had a good chat with the mechanic. He popped the bonnet stuck his hand on the back of the radiator and said it's stuffed. Most of it was stone cold. Said the thermostat in the front of the fan wouldn't be registering any heat.

 

[redkite]

Weird thing I'm noticing is how fast its getting up to operating temp, usually within a km or 2 from start up and then once l turn off the ignition the gauge is still showing operating temperature even after 45mins.

Mine does that too, even though I have no overheating issues. So I'd guess that is pretty normal.

 

[Cannonboy]

Well new rad is in. So far so good.
Not surprised l had issues, ripped out those damn foam things trapping all sorts of rubbish against the too

 

[Boogieboots]

That radiator looks nasty! Did your old one have the plastic tank at the top? How about the new one?
I have done 370k and am dubious about the longevity of a radiator with a plastic tank...
I would like to replace it before It fails

 

[Cannonboy]

That radiator looks nasty! Did your old one have the plastic tank at the top? How about the new one?
I have done 370k and am dubious about the longevity of a radiator with a plastic tank...
I would like to replace it before It fails

Yes the plastic top the new one has it too. I've had this radiator in for 10 years .

 

[Boogieboots]

I will have to keep an eye out for options. Having said that my plastic tank has lasted 370k so maybe I am a bit paranoid...