D22 ZD30 INTERMITTENT Power loss! All help will be appreciated

[KRAYSLiCK]

Ok guys 4X4 Zd30 D22
For the past year and some months My Zd30 would loss power almost feeling like limp home mode. Power would come and go if the vehicle is switched off. Turned back on the power would come back and not allways. NOTE during the power loss you can see bluse smoke comming out of the exhaust when the vehicle is reved up also a rough idle.. Ive bin searching for answers for a long while.. and no help.

engine milage is below 45k.
Trouble codes were a P0707 INJECTOR PUMP TIMMING..

Things that were done
entire fuel system cleaned.
new primer pump
Nps switch is ok did the test..
Diesil purge
Switched boost pressure sensor..

 

[bods]

What year is it? It could be a problem with the ecu on top of the injector pump. If it is, it isn't a big job to fix from what I understand. I recall someone having a similar problem recently and that's how it was fixed.

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

What year is it? It could be a problem with the ecu on top of the injector pump. If it is, it isn't a big job to fix from what I understand. I recall someone having a similar problem recently and that's how it was fixed.

sir do you have any links.. based on what was the pump's over head ecu problem... it would maybe change my way of addressing the problem. abit..plz

 

[bods]

This is the only one I can find from recently.

http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=30973

If you do a search for vp44 pump on the forum it should help you with some more results.

 

[tweak'e]

Trouble codes were a P0707 INJECTOR PUMP TIMMING..

most common cause is air being sucked into fuel line. typically around filter or filter primer. but any hose connection can be the cause including the spill line which goes from injection pump to injections under the rocker cover.
spill line mod will sort the spill line out, fitting an electric lift pump can show up any major leak.

also check the tank is not under vacuum after a long run.

if thats all ok then its a faulty injection pump.
the timing piston housing tends to get scored by any dirt and once that happens it leaks and it can't get enough fuel pressure to alter the timing.

 

[Rumpig]

http://www.navara.asia/showpost.php?p=337512&postcount=3

 

[rastik86]

This has been happening to me lately. Haven't noticed any blue smoke but on infrequent occasions has happened. Giving it stick and just won't pull above 2000rpm. In 3Rd or 4Th, has happened on cold morning once after a short time at operating temp going up a hill in 4th, cut in and out then just power back. 3Rd gear three timea after longer drives, twice coming out of a corner and hitting some bumpy patches in the road, then again today coming up the hill to home after driving an hour down the freeway without fault on a hot day. Went round the block and tried to replicate and no drama. Little stuck as don't know how to pull fault codes and it happens so rarely and in different conditions.

 

[Rumpig]

Tried unplugging the NPS?

 

[rastik86]

Not yet. I tested it a while back and was fine. I'll disconnect it tonight and see how it goes. Probably a good start seen is it seems to happen sometimes when bumpy. Cheers Rumpig

 

[rastik86]

So... Brains over here finally turned the radio down and drove without music all the way home... Sure enough my "power loss" issue popped up and with the radio off I could hear the revs staying constant in 4th with not much really going on in a forward motion so my unqualified diagnosis is now clutch.

The power loss seems to be a clear cut case of clutch slipping and losing momentum so when the clutch grabbed again the revs dropped down with the loss of momentum.

So I learned three lessons...
1. Turn the radio off while trying to sort out car issues
2. It pays to use your brain once in a while
3. Never go full ******

Anyhow mechanic reckons do a clutch and smf conversion which I think 4 terrain sell em as a kit... Goodbye large chunk of savings

Edit: I forgot to mention, the rotten stench of clutch when I pulled up at home was the final indicator lol

 

[Stelianos]

So... Brains over here finally turned the radio down and drove without music all the way home... Sure enough my "power loss" issue popped up and with the radio off I could hear the revs staying constant in 4th with not much really going on in a forward motion so my unqualified diagnosis is now clutch.

The power loss seems to be a clear cut case of clutch slipping and losing momentum so when the clutch grabbed again the revs dropped down with the loss of momentum.

So I learned three lessons...
1. Turn the radio off while trying to sort out car issues
2. It pays to use your brain once in a while
3. Never go full ******

Anyhow mechanic reckons do a clutch and smf conversion which I think 4 terrain sell em as a kit... Goodbye large chunk of savings

Edit: I forgot to mention, the rotten stench of clutch when I pulled up at home was the final indicator lol

what do you mean smf conversion, d22 already has smf. exedy is the best.

 

[rastik86]

I was wondering why I couldn't find the D22 kit on the evilbay, he did say he did it on a D40 and must have assumed it was the same in the D22 and I assumed he was right and we all know what happens when we assume.

I had 4terrain in my Patrol and I found it pretty sweet. Saying that someone told me 4terrain vs exedy is apples and apples in performance and quality so it may come down to price.

 

[Stelianos]

yes no need to touch the flywheel, maybe machine it a bit if you have to, all you have to pay is the clutch kit. dont replace the flywheel.

 

[bods]

Flywheel will need machining if the current clutch is slipping. Depending on how far worn your current one is, if the rivets have gouged the flywheel you will need to replace it. You won't know until you remove it though. As you said, comes down to price really. Are you going to attempt it yourself or take it to a mechanic?

 

[rastik86]

Yeah my Patrol was millimetres off having to be replaced, machining did the trick. Fingers crossed she's all good with a machine this time.
Definitely mechanic, I haven't got the tools and equipment, know-how or motivation to attempt it.

 

[bods]

Haha fair enough. How many km on it? Just out of interest....

 

[rastik86]

214000. Recently rebuilt rear diff. I put my foot down but don't drive it like a race car or thrash through the gears, or get on and off the gas constantly, nor go off-road
So I can only put it down to the old bloke I bought it off wasn't as soft on her as I thought he looked

 

[bods]

Still not a bad effort really. I guess that's the risk of buying second hand, you never really know how it's been treated...

 

[Rumpig]

214000. Recently rebuilt rear diff. I put my foot down but don't drive it like a race car or thrash through the gears, or get on and off the gas constantly, nor go off-road
So I can only put it down to the old bloke I bought it off wasn't as soft on her as I thought he looked

I've known a few old people that tend to think the clutch pedal is a foot rest, then wonder what that burning smell is.

 

[vicszd30]

I've known a few old people that tend to think the clutch pedal is a foot rest, then wonder what that burning smell is.

haha aaand the break peddle Did mine at 250'000 twice grrr faulty thrust bearing... I am now a qualified clutch fitter ;(