D22 runs perfectly. stops and won't start until had a rest, then runs perfectly for 10-15ks please help

[slow learner]

Mmmmm Thanks Horatius. hadn't even considered that. so to clarify: from the fuel tank there will be two pipes not one heading towards the engine bay and both need disconnected from the tank and extended into the jerry can?

 

[Boogieboots]

Yes. I guess you will need to run a couple of decent lengths of hose, though I am not sure of the access at the tank. The two hoses are accessable from the front drivers side of the engine bay. This is where you can disconnect the hoses to drop into a can of liquimoly diesel purge, so you could look here for another option to run new hose from

 

[Boogieboots]

I was looking on the downloaded manual I have and the fuel sender unit includes the fuel out and return so it should be easy to get to the hoses. The pick up should be accessable to check for blockage as well

 

[slow learner]

Boogieboots, What Manual do you have? I looked for a haynes but didn't specify the D22 model, Ive been using the free NAV life pdfs. im gonna attach a pic as you can see what im trying describe.

the fitting on the right with the blue cap (this isn't my pump its a image from the net) so I traced the 2 x fuel lines. the thicker line (10mm internal dia) was the fuel in from filter.. leaving the other (5mm internal dia) now that smaller line was leading to the fitting with blue cap.

I went to couplers and collected 2 x 5m lengths of these pipes (actually the 5mm was substituted for a 4.5 that the good lady at couplers insisted would be perfect...

as i was attempting to pull the existing line off this fitting the fitting became loose, its a bolt that has a hole in the shaft and that sits inside a ring that also has a hole in...

bottom line is it was now finger tight (im assuming this is the return connection) anyhow its off and wrestled for a while to get the new 9bit small0 pipe onto this fitting and replace it.

Qnce it was on, and the 5m pipes were connected to the jerry can in the tray, i primed the fuel filter and she started but stopped...... I could see leak at this connection..(in pic with blue cap)

Q: do you or Old Tony know if or have a pic of that fitting or know if it needs a special orientation or torque I kinda ruled out torque as it was undone with my fingers and wasn't leaking previously,

be great to see an explosion of that assembly.

 

[Boogieboots]

I have a manual that I downloaded from this site but I don't think it is available anymore. At 10km at a time you should be due in Byford sometime next week so I will give you a copy
As for the pump pic, I will try and remember to have a look at mine tomorrow mate.

 

[slow learner]

Thats Funny... yeah ill pack a swag and some earplugs. ill keep on with this jerry can idea for now and see if i can stop the return line leaking really appreciate everyones input.

 

[Rumpig]

The fitting with the blue cap returns fuel to the tank , shouldn't be finger tight. Any air leak in to the pump will let the fuel drain back to the tank. Air coming from the fuel filter housing isn't good either , fix that.
Here's the vp44 manual. 106805168-VP44-CO-EE14E-11130.pdf

 

[slow learner]

Thats A sweet gift Rumpig Made for some interesting reading and a hard slap to the face realisation of just how involved that pump is.

keep coming back to the same thing: Anything that works 100% perfect for 30 minutes pre stopping cant be "that" broken, especially as she starts first time 8 hours later.

did notice on the diagrams that engine temperature was art of the feedback or input to the pump controller....

Boogieboots and old Tony suggested the plug in diagnostic (in case the nissan mechanics wasn't working)

Going to hook her up to the king chrome diagnostic in the morning and see if I can gain any info that way.

Thank you ... it is appreciated

 

[Erick]

From what I have read so far it seems as tho engine coolant temperature could be a factor. The mechanics of ur pump are fine, it’s the electrics that are not. It takes my engine five to fifteen kms to fully reach operating temp. And takes well at least four hours or longer to cool down. Never really timed it. There is a sensor that puts engine into limp mode beyond certain temperature maybe something is going wrong there.

 

[Old.Tony]

That's a distinct possibility, @Erick ... I'd suggest it may be reading overtemp rather than under, because I've started my engine in -11C and it's not had a drama, and thanks to having a caravan on the back it heated up fairly quickly.

Any idea what the ECU thinks the coolant temp is when it's giving up?

 

[slow learner]

Loving the sound of that. most of the fault finding, draining of fuel, re priming, and clean starting and running would lean to something other than the V expensive pump.... (fingers crossed).

Regards the ECU, (OT) Yesterday the (affordable) OBD2 scan tool from Kincrome K8410 Was anticlimactic as SLOWLEARNER (after unwrapping) read the compatible Nissan Models in the instruction book and deflated when it said 2008+ only.

Never mind... Boogie Boots did explain that the OBD2 wasn't straight forward....

Think that location of this temp sensor that triggers a limp mode has got to be the next step.....

I will try and locate it .................... I may be some time.

 

[Erick]

I would start with engine coolant sensor that sends signal to ur temp gauge. But I think if it was just that, ur temp gauge would read high, as in boiling. I have been saved by engine going to limp mode once due to high temp and the gauge was off the chart. So engine would literally quit until under 2000 rpm. Not just reduce power.

 

[Hopeless]

I have been dealing with this problem for six months with my ZD30 Navara. Initially the same issue (not starting/stalling when hot) and eventually not starting at all. Except for once a week or two ago when for no apparent reason it ran all day. Next day no start. Had three mechanics look at it without luck. Eventually had a Nissan Consult attached through the OBD reader courtesy of a diesel mechanic relative, Showed error codes with crankcase sensor and catalytic converter. Replaced the the sensor, cleared the code - no start. Pulled the exhaust manifold away from block - no start. Cleaned all earth points as Nissan mechanic says this commonly a problem. Also told the starter engine failing will cause warm start issues but not stall. There is fuel coming to the injectors but I cannot tell the pressure. No bubbles and fuel coming from the pump outlet when cranking. Blocked the EGR valve with no change. The MAF is primitive on this and made little difference when the car was going if it was plugged in or not.
I have bought another car as the consensus from mechanics that the pump has had it and its probably not worth replacing. Its now something I spend an hour or two every now and then If I find something new to do. Its hard to throw away a car if it just a intermittent relay problem, I have haunted forums and noticed that in issues like this the thread just stops - a lot of people do not get back with an outcome. If I do find a solution to this I will re-post - even to say its gone to scrap. Good luck with your ZD30. Mine went well until it didn't.

 

[slow learner]

Hopeless!! Cheers for that encouraging information packed post... Shouldn't laugh but its good to know that its not just Slowlearner with a challenge do deal with regards this ZD30. Without a Challenge whats the point.

Ok Now Boogie boots would you be able to send me a link for the OBD that definitely does work on these 2006 model ZD30. Will have to buy one as I cant risk breaking yours.

I started her this morning at 6am and noted she ran slightly longer with the colder weather. Timming now to see how long before the restart occurs.

This may sound tight as I dont have a comprehensive manual but can any of the ZD30 owners send me a list and pic location of any or all of the Temperature sensors on this engine.

Cant errediacte the crank positioned sensor but as she always starts after 9hours I am tending towards Temperature and or pressure being the causation factor in this fault.

I have located and tried unplugging the temperature sender located on the front of engine (rh side or passenger side) It will start cold without this plugged in. and wont start with or without it plugged in once warm, So I have kinda crossed that sensor OFF the culprit list for now.

Old Tony am I missing many more temp sensors, bi metallic strips, thermocouples or temp based resistance components that could be miss signalling the ECU....

Clinging to the FACT that she starts like a champion and drives like one until whatever is heating up signals a STOP..

Cant give up Hopeless..... I can Taste the solution.

 

[Boogieboots]

https://www.navaraforum.com/threads/zd30-consult-obd-android.33848/post-395373Look at the last couple of pages of this thread for info on the most recent scan tool info.
The offer to plug in to read your ECU still stands mate. Unlikely to cause any damage and I know I can get the Ecutalk cable still.
As hopeless says, I hate seeing dead end threads with no solution too. All this knowledge helps keep our rigs on the road. And I hate the thought that we can't work it out
The more info the better the chance of finding the answer
I also have the digital copy of the manual mate. I can easily pass a copy on to you

 

[Old.Tony]

It's certainly a weird problem.

Temperature affects several parts of the system. As the temperature rises, the thermostat opens allowing coolant to flow but this is a physical (non-electronic) thing.

It also affects the glow plugs which should switch off over 80C (it would be interesting to see if that's the issue, in which case it might be that your piston rings are a little sloppy, and you're losing compression which won't let the fuel ignite.

Another effect is the EGR - ignore this if you've blocked your EGR (I haven't scrolled back far enough to check, and it's possibly valuable for others seeking an answer). When the engine is cold, it won't open the EGR valve at all, but once it warms up the EGR valve opens above idle and below full throttle (so only in the mid-range). It's possible that - if your EGR system is intact - the valve could be flooding the intake manifold with exhaust gas, which will quickly quench the combustion.

There aren't that many temperature sensors on the older motors (I've looked through the manual and can't find them). There's a coolant temp sensor, and a "triple pressure sensor" which is linked to the operation of the electric cooling fan (not in all models).

If your EGR is unblocked, fix that. It might resolve the problem altogether.

Does your car have a "heat switch" like some D22s? Try driving with the heat switch in the ON position.

Something in my head says the NPS in the gearbox is somehow connected to that, try disconnecting your NPS (I think it's the blue plug? Tweak'e?)

 

[Hopeless]

In my case, perhaps a little further into the abyss, I can only agree (and hope) with Slow Learner that this is electrical. I have blocked of the EGR with no benefit. I have tried the leaving the heat switch on. I have not found another temperature sensor to disable or replace. The significant effort of finding a code reader for this vehicle has not benefited me greatly (although the catalyst code P0430 may give clues that I am not aware of). I find it hard to believe that the injector pump can be this random in its performance but most mechanics have said this is the most likely culprit. However none have not been prepared to say definitely this is the problem and yes I could spend $5 k and not fix it. Some have murmured about multiple injector problems.

Slow Learner take up Boogieboots offer and borrow the scanner. All information helps. I am walking down the line of injector pump pressures at the moment and if this does not get me anywhere I may call an exorcist.

I dislike an unanswered problem.

 

[Old.Tony]

Does the ZD30 have some sort of butterfly valve in the intake that remains partly/mostly closed during starting (like a choke in a petrol engine) that should be opening up as the ECU adjusts the air-fuel ratio for normal temp driving, but is failing to open up?

Edit: @Hopeless , have you tried unplugging your NPS?

 

[happy john]

This happened to me and left me stranded a few times. Ended up being the thread on the water sensor under the fuel filter leaking and sucking air.

 

[Hopeless]

Does the ZD30 have some sort of butterfly valve in the intake that remains partly/mostly closed during starting (like a choke in a petrol engine) that should be opening up as the ECU adjusts the air-fuel ratio for normal temp driving, but is failing to open up?

Edit: @Hopeless , have you tried unplugging your NPS?

Yes it does have such a valve which appears to be working on mine, Actuated I guess as you say by the ECU through a relay I think. Can see it working as the engine cranks. Closes and then opens when cranking stops. No I have not unplugged the NPS - will give that a try that next week. Thanks for the help.