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That's an anecdote at best though. Compared to the r and d that goes into the handling design of passenger cars it's not convincing. For the normal conditions that people drive in, placard pressures on standard tyres won't have them coming off the rim (is "almost" coming off the rim like being...

They'll last longer for sure, have heard of numbskulls going to 60 psi for this reason (probably better fuel economy as well). If 40 psi is what Nissan engineers settled on, then that will probably be the all round best compromise (but I highly doubt they did settle on that and you might have...

True that. Though what 90% of of people run around on are basically highway tyres anyway, marketed as "AT's". Also what many people consider a "full load" often equates to "way overloaded". So probably the only correct answer is to "suck it and see". That muddies are generally way stronger...

Defensive driver training course? lol It sounds like these "defensive driver trainers" might benefit from a "basic physics" course. It's not like the Nissan engineers (who do understand physics) went to great lengths to come up with these numbers or anything (I checked...it's 32 front, 35 rear...

I tried the old wives tail of adding a couple hundred mls or so of 2 stroke mower oil whenever I filled up (curiosity and all that). Reached the conclusion that any changes were probably from the placebo effect and I doubt it made a difference to anything. I am sceptical of fuel additives in...

Agree, and you certainly have my sympathies but cars in general seem to be reducing in quality. Also agree the engine guard is great advice. Even worse for people who travel off road, remote areas is that around 2000-2010 they generally started going away from making utes (or cars in general)...

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That really is strange. Maybe they really are the wrong ones, but if they fit...? A lot of parts places round this way go off VIN number which makes getting correct parts far more reliable. I was always fussy with mine and repacked them every 40k kms, or before a major trip. I did have one...

It's not unusual to find some oil around the turbo on these old things (your first vid). Check the oil return pipe bolts are nipped up and the paper gasket is ok (don't over tighten though - easy to strip a thread), hose clamps are tight and so on. I rerouted my pcv with larger pipe through a...

Which model? Have welded cracked exhaust manifolds before, which I found complete waste of time (will only crack again somewhere else). I snapped a bolt off at the egr pipe on mine (D22 zd30) and made a meal of drilling it out and re tapping it, so got one off a fleabay wrecker. From memory it...

I ran mine according to tyre placard (around 33 psi from memory). Far more comfortable (think the engineers overlooked the need for suspension in the D22 lol). That's unloaded though. When fully loaded it's 42psi all round until I reach the dirt. Then it depends on conditions.

Had to change the body mounts on mine at one stage. After changing nearly everything else in front suspension first, unfortunately lol. It was making clunking front end noises particularly obvious when going through roundabouts. Strangely worse when going straight on, rather than turning. Also...

I don't get around here much anymore since the old nav passed on, but thought I'd respond to this. The head cracked on mine and I didn't think it worth repairing. A small hose to the egt valve split with Mrs H along the freeway. So just to make sure the head cracked she let it cool for a while...

These motors are generally very reliable (unlike the ones in the Patrol), the heads don't crack for no reason. It's likely been way overheated so there will almost certainly be cooling system issues. Radiator restriction being the most common (from lack of proper servicing). It might be worth...

Here is a link to the relevant part of the manual. The head details start at page 133.

Noticed the link to the RTA spec sheets wasn't very good above (only took you to the search page). Hopefully these are better. zd30 model D22 dual cab ute. yd25 model D22 dual cab ute. edit to add...looks like they didn't work either lol. For anyone interested click on the "post 1999 RVD...

Have a look at the link Charlie, I have tried to explain it as clearly as I can there. Rather than write a war and peace length answer here. Hopefully others with experience can chime in. It explains what is considered a standard height for a D22 to begin with, how to do the measurements etc...

Thought I’d start a general thread on D22 lifts, hopefully people can join in and point out if/where I’m in error, because I could have read or measured something wrong (I’m nothing if not an ***** lol) and also because debate could make this a good resource for people thinking about getting one...

ps. Was misleading with the "at least 1/3" of original suspension travel above. According to the NSW regs which seem a reasonable safety guide. When changing ride height at least 2/3 of original suspension travel must be maintained in both directions. So having 33/66% overall travel works out...

They're a great idea. One tip though, is if you are unhappy with where you have the unit mounted and start changing it, don't get distracted by something else and leave it disconnected/out of the car lol. That's sure to be the time you'll need it! Not a bad idea to check all the smaller hoses...