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05 zd30 has a lot going on under the dash. When my air con stopped working I traced it back to the little blue air con switch. That’s when things got weird. Their is no straight +or - , just various voltages depending what is on at the time-blower motor, engine on , acc on, etc. No feed at all...

Typo -lld’s should be HID’s

Played around with LED’s over the years and they all have one thing in common. Low beam has lots of light but high beam is not much brighter or focused than low beam. If u go for more lumens ( brightness) u just light up the road signs -to the point it becomes a worry. Especially the big green...

Only for five to ten seconds tho at a time. No more than thirty seconds all up.

Dream on about bio fuels/ethanol being more environmentally friendly than diesel/petrol. It takes more than a litre of oil to make a litre of bio fuel when u add up the growing/transport/refining. It’s all spin for people who don’t know or not interested in researching the facts. Even electric...

Those white foam fruit boxes work well. Cut to size with a sharp knife. Squeeze it in and voila! Worked for me anyway.

Thermostats do the same job in any motor. This time when u check, engine should be hot-running temperature but not boiling- remove radiator cap and look for flow of coolant past the cap. If u have flow all is well. If no flow ur engine will reach operating temp and beyond very quickly. A few kms.

Ok. Take cap off radiator when cold and engine at slow idle. Look for air bubbles being pushed out of coolant. That’s a cracked head. Under load and revs it will push the water out of the radiator. If it just overheats under load, but does not lose water, most likely radiator, maybe water pump...

I had to remove that side engine mount and Jack motor up. Be careful not to damage oil sender unit.

If u have a variable vane turbo , it’s the first place I’d look. It’s their one big fault, vanes getting stuck/not working properly. Really sounds like vanes are not moving until vacuum builds sufficiently to force them to instead of just coax them.

Bought a replacement starter motor for 2005 3.0 l online for less than $150 not so long ago from people that sold all sorts of starter motors. So just keep searching until u find a business u can trust. Goes great BTW.

Agree

When u say the timing appears to be out, how many degrees? Anything up to give degrees can be timing chain stretch/wear, anything over fifteen is a tooth or two on the sprockets. If ur bored/pistons look good, sure way to tell if valves are doing there job is get piston to TDC compression...

U touched on the elephant in the room about older versus newer vehicles. Which one is more harmful to the environment? The one which goes forever with little maintenance or the one which is marginally better on emissions but goes for half-or less-as long. Higher Overall cost to both ur pocket...

Probably won’t. Any Navara I’ve ever been in or seen is pretty much 12-1500 rpm

No need for higher viscosity oil. Change it more often if ur getting sludge. New engines don’t wear so much as get increased ‘blow by’ past the rings and valve guide seals.

And just to really make it interesting, when I do find a tyre I like, when it comes time to get new ones, that tyre exists no more, even when the company does.

Pull the tappet cover and check clearances. If u do have a tight/ burnt exhaust valve that would explain the ‘ puffing’ noise on exhaust side. Did u do ur compression checks hot or cold? I’ve seen enough diesel motors u have to start wit aero start but once hot are as good as new.

All this tyre talk and never once a mention about ply rating or load capacity. The two go hand in hand anyway. More ply’s , tougher tyre. Currently running 10 ply’s for $160 each. Can put a ton on the back and not even have to put extra air in the tyres. Although I do anyway if the trip is more...

Ok. A bit of back to basics here. Mechanical pumps very rarely die suddenly due to mechanical failure. Maybe a broken shaft or something might do it. The pump u have is electro-mechanical. The electrics fail. If u cracked an injector line and fuel was coming out of it , that indicates ur pump...