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I could be wrong but I think that by law u should be able to switch off any extra spot/driving lights when high beam is on. I always use method two.

With the uni joints , make sure car is out of gear, hand brake on or restrained from rolling Joints should have no strain on them. Also check the splines for movement.

Don’t even think about trying to mess with the electrical part of the pump. Unless u know far more than almost anyone. They are programmed to suit and can’t be dashed or reprogrammed as far as I’m told. And failures can be wiring insulation, transistors, or mechanical wear causing sensors to not...

And a copper washer.

Spend $120 and get an engine guard. Temp monitoring/alarm. Would possibly saved u $6 g. Then u can use ur spare pod for something else. Wins all around

Yes. My bad. There should be a ‘from’ in there just after diesel.

The primer/filter

Thnx for that. And it would help by keeping the hot diesel recycling thru the pump

What is the spill line mod?

Big difference in rolling diameter. 11-12percent. So at approx 92 kph on new tyre will be 100 Kph on old.

Or u could bolt an engine guard onto ur transmission. Or hack the output line to the radiator/cooler with a temp probe. As in an eight dollar generic water temp probe to a temp gauge. Cheap real time read out.

I would be checking injector four, recently replaced or not. Black smoke and carbon build up are the same problem-over fueling.

Doubt the exhaust is at atmospheric pressure. When ur boosting to 15/20 psi and then heating all that to 500 degrees or more and sending it back out through a pipe, it’s not at atmospheric pressure. Sounds like a Chinese translation, ie someone does not know what they are talking about. But if...

Be very, very careful about bio diesel. When made properly and run in older mechanical pump engines it can be ok. But I have seen and experienced it eat fuel ines, clog up pumps, strip paint from anything it touched if made badly. Cost the guy on a farm I help out on thousands in the end. Lucky...

Unless it’s that bad ur cutting out rust and welding, just buy some fish oil or penetrate. And soak the area. Comes in aerosol cans or brush on. Dries semi hard

Pays to get good ballast and match outputs. Otherwise lots of radio interference and such. Pays to look around on the internet and ask questions. Like most things, chap is not necessarily cheap in the long run

Makes a big difference to both engine radiator and air con radiator to not have any air being drawn anywhere but thru the fan shroud and therefore the radiators(s).

The ZD motor had a lot of research spent on it to meet Euro standards. To get more HP -‘performance’, one needs more air and fuel (chip) and this is when a bigger exhaust comes in, to get that burnt air/fuel out. The standard exhaust is fine for the HP the motor makes standard.

Hard to see how a bolt could damage a crank enough to cause low oil pressure. I would be asking a lot more questions, requesting photos/visual inspection by a third party. Unless the oil pump sits at front of crank or something.

I would run a wire from the hi beam that’s working over to the one that is not.