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Crankshaft key at 12 o clock and camshafts on no1 are both not in contact with valves. That’s injection/firing stroke. If valves are moving ur on overlap-end of exhaust stroke and beginning of intake.

Variable vane turbos have one drawback and that is the variable vane(exhaust/hot side) are known to play up. I would be worth dismantling the turbo and have it inspected by someone with experience before u do some major damage to the turbo or engine

Ok. Have sane year d22 with zd30 motor. Bought at an auction and had never driven on before. Let’s just say it was the most “relaxed” Fidel I’d ever driven. It was pressuring the radiator and I could see whoever had owned had spent money trying all the usual‘cheap’ fixes when it was obvious the...

If ur worried about egr valve overheating temporarily do the blank job. But the heater in my 2005 d22 works better some days than others. But always enough to get by, but I’m N Qld. We can get a frost sometimes, lol

Got to h ave a decent set of exciter boxes for HID s. A bigger wattage than the globes. All those start up and flickering problems go away. If they could make and LED bulb that would throw some distance instead of lighting up the road signs I’d probably use them

That’s why I like my HIDs. Bright enough to use without any help, and the hi/low is achieved by the bulb itself altering position when u flick or pull the lever on steering column. No change in light intensity or that fraction of a second where different circuits or filaments are lighting...

Sounds like u have it at a good spot. Alarm is usually ten to fifteen degrees over normal

There is a little hose/pipe that runs from heater line down to the egr setup under intake manifold. Try blocking that temporarily and see if there is any difference.

Had the same problem on a zd30 motor. Tried every sealer both the cheap and expensive ones. None worked. It’s not that bad a job to replace head gasket or the head for that matter before the damage gets any worse. Corrosion around the leak either to the head or the block will make a problem for...

One thing I have learnt from my experience of LEDs is u can’t trust any specification about lumens, wattage or anything else from the adverts. Some are just ridiculous though some seem to make sense.

Bolt directly to the head toward back of motor if possible. Stay away from exhaust. Don’t bolt to any casting that sticks out from the head.

First thing is check see if diesel coming out of injector lines. Pump the hell out of the primer bulb. I have a in-line low pressure fuel pump for just that job. Tested ur glow plugs, both in and out of the engine? Multimeter or bridge across 12 v for a couple of seconds only. Should heat almost...

Don’t make the assumption it’s a cracked head until it is off. Could be head gasket. Had same problem, not as bad still drivable to a degree. Was the gasket, very obvious.

Yeah. I was replacing pump as well. How to spend $5k plus without really trying.

And the scissor gear needs to be locked with a 6mm (10mm head) threaded bolt thru the gear to lock both front and rear scissors gears. There is a thread on rear scissor gear and the bolt will clamp the unit as one.

As for not starting, is injector pump bled up? When u feel confident to use starter motor, loosen injector lines at injectors and diesel should appear and run out of the rubber shroud things at that junction. Within a few revolutions of the motor. Hand pump the fuel inlet line as well beforehand.

Having just replaced head on my zd3.0, I can say that the large front timing cover does come off, but catches on the injector pump drive gear. U need to wriggle it past that with some force and it left a scratch on the cover. I carefully filed that out to assist with reinstall. It really helps...

That sort of overfuelling will shorten engine life, mainly thru polluting the oil but also just general wear and tear thru soot. How does ur exhaust pipe look? It should just turn ur finger black but have no actual soot. I have heard MAF sensor units can go south and cause overfueling at...

The difference between going 95-100km/h to doing 100-105km/h is noticeable in my 2005 navara. Nearly 2l/100 km. 10.5 down to 8.5/9.

I would not even think of starting until all gears and bits are replaced. The consequences are horrific-complete destruction of engine. U might get away without pulling sump off to get all the bits out if u trust the oil filters, but a complete rebuild of the timing sequence, top and bottom as...